Phoenix, as a city, suffers from it’s youth. In 1914, Arizona was last of the 48 contiguous states to be included into the union. Because of this, Phoenix lacks a clear sense of history and an aimless sense of progress which is more in line with developers then it is with building a cohesive city. Although recent projects like Phoenix’s new light rail are beacons of hope — attempting to spearhead progress and unity within its sprawling mass, the majority of the city is marred by homogeneous development and the eradication of the few monuments the city has to offer.
As of now, if a building wasn’t built today, a developer is looking to level it for a condominium project with imaginary wrought iron windows. This is best represented in the recent demolition of Washburn Piano to make way for a poorly stuccoed AT&T strip-mall or the planned development of the Chase Bank property on 44th and Camelback which, thankfully for now, has been denied by the city.
Being born and raised in Scottsdale, when I come back to Arizona the landscape becomes more and more bleak as every corner of the metropolitan area seems to resemble the next. An epidemic of big boxes retailers within “lifestyle centers” built around faux-Mediterainan villas — which only principle variation from each other is the color of a roof — is now the general make-up of Phoenix and it’s a bit depressing. I could spend all day mapping out the unfortunate current state of Phoenix’s narrow minded view of progress but what needs to be celebrated is what is still there. Places like Frank Lloyd Wright’s Biltmore Hotel and Taliesin West, the most important and well know landmark in Phoenix, or on a much more modest scale Paolo Soleri’s Cosanti in Scottsdale. At the point in which I felt that I had exhausted my options in terms of what to do and see in Phoenix, I came across a landmark seemingly known more outside of Phoenix then to its own residents; the Mystery Castle.
Upon mentioning that I was going to visit the place, there wasn’t a single person I had talked to that had ever heard of it, even to people that have been residents for over 30 years stared blankly as I mentioned the Mystery Castle. Yet nestled at the foot of South Mountain the Mystery Castle is considered one of Phoenix’s “Points of Pride” by the Phoenix Pride Commission, a fact that isn’t as much interesting as it is true.
A piece of folk art as much it is a home, the Mystery Castle joins the ranks of folk art structures built by a single determined individual like Simon Rodia’s Watts Tower or Michael Rubel’s Rubel Castle in Glendora, CA (a post I will end up doing down the line). After being diagnosed with tuberculosis, Boyce Gulley abandoned his family in Washington and began constructing the “castle” in 1930. Built almost exclusively with materials found in the near by dump, Gulley, who had no prior building experience, rode out the next 15 years building the castle until his death in 1945. His family, unbeknowst to the fact that he was alive, let alone the fact that he was building a castle for himself, was willed the property after his death and his daughter has inhabited the structure ever since and is still currently in residence.
The Mystery Castle boasts 18 rooms and over 13 fireplaces, shown here is a chimney of one them — made of bricks rejected by the mason:
The Mystery Castle also boasts staggering views of the city, with a wide vistas usually only seen at the peak of Camelback Mountain:
Although I will scale back on giving too many details, as you should gather them from the tour itself, there are some elements that were not covered that are rather perplexing — for example this sign fastened to the gate upon entry:
Unless I am mistaken, the Mystery Castle does not seem to be a television show. What sort of Emmy the castle won is not quite clear and I cannot find any information so I will leave you with that to ponder.
Hours of Operation are Thursday – Sunday 11am to 4pm between Oct and Mid-June although I advise calling ahead at (602) 268-1581. Admission is 5 Bucks.
The Mystery Castle is located at: 800 East Mineral Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85045.
See more stunning photography of the Mystery Castle in the Gallery.
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