For even the layperson, Omaha has a reputation for its great steaks (a reputation that is probably subconsciously derived by the frozen mail order steaks of Omaha Steak ). When you are an asshole who thought he could get some sleep on a flight from LA to Omaha that left at 12:50 am and arrived at 11:30 am with connections, you hope that the meal you have been starving for — after attempting to gorge yourself with pretzels — will be one that will satisfy that starvation and make you forget a sleepless flight of refusing to watch Alvin and the Chipmunks.
That being said, I went straight from the airport to Johnny’s Café. The only thing I knew about Johnny’s was that it was the “oldest steakhouse in Omaha” , Established in 1922, but what I didn’t know is that I was about to be blown the fuck away.
For the sake of accuracy Johnny’s Café is located in South Omaha but since I am not quite familiar with Omaha’s municipalities and Johnny’s is always listed as in Omaha, the headline will stay as is. In Johnny’s backyard looms the former Livestock Exchange Building and Stockyards, which closed in 1999 (currently under renovation for commercial office space and affordable housing), but until then the meat clearly didn’t have to travel very far:
The outside of Johnny’s showed some promise with a vintage exterior only slightly marred by some bad modifications around the doorway:
Johnny’s is the kind of place that could go either way — a restaurant where the median age is around 60 and in my experience that means the place is either going to be the best or the worst, rarely in-between. Once I passed through the fairly ugly awning entrance I was greeted by one of the best entrances I have seen in recent memory. A cork ceiling akin to the walls of The Dresden in Los Feliz with a gold light fixture erupting from it like an upside down aloe vera plant or golden finger nails clippings:
The heavy steal doors have handles that I imagine are supposed to be cattle centric but look like a mix between kidneys and bagpipes. In the circular window there is an intricate sculpture of horses chasing bulls that helps lend to this being the best door I have ever opened:
The foyer is a grand room with a huge wooden chandelier, coat check, and cashier area. The restaurant itself was absolutely one of the most exquisite examples of a classic steakhouse. The rich atmosphere is seemingly frozen in time with a mix of inventive architectural detailing, authentic kitsch, and dash of old school sophistication. For example the main trusses in the dining room and bar are actually made in the shape of T-Bone steaks:
I decided to eat in the bar area as I was by myself. Maybe it’s just because I live in LA but the one thing that really surprised me was how low the prices were for the lunch menu; French Dip 7.25 –- Prime Rib 11.95. Those being my menu choices I approached the waiter for a recommendation. Very confidently he recommend the Baked Short Ribs – a choice that wasn’t even in consideration – but at only $8.25 I found security in his confidence and went with his choice.
Although the bread and salad weren’t much above serviceable, I swear to all things holy those baked short ribs were one of the most profound meat experiences I have had in awhile, especially for the price. A texture and experience not dissimilar to the Almond Duck appetizer at Trader Vic’s — laying in a pool of au jus, the outside of the short rib was baked to a perfectly thin crispness while the inside was so light and moist that the fat could not hold on to the rich flavorful meat. This was easily the best $8.25 I have ever spent and would highly recommend this dish to all lunch patrons.
After my meal I wandered about the restaurant, finding a large banquet area and one of the rooms looked oddly familiar. I couldn’t put my finger on it until the owner informed me that the room had been used in the Alexander Payne and Jack Nicholson film “About Schmidt”:
This sculptural mural is supposed to represent all of what makes up Omaha and its vast history but really just represents the sort of singular experience you can only have at Johnny’s Café. I can’t recommend this place enough.
More photos of signage, backlit foliage, and a Mardi Gras Moose in the Gallery.
Johnny’s Café is located at: 4702 S 27th St, Omaha, NE 68107
Website: www.johnnyscafe.com
Un-fucking-believable